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ALTO
ADIGE
Speck
A leg of salted pork cured for 20-24 weeks.
It is eaten thinly sliced on thick slices of buttered black bread made
of rye and/or whole wheat. Speck is considered more flavorful and drier
than Parma ham.
Canederli
These are dumplings made of white or whole
wheat flour and egg. They are served as a main dish with butter, cheese
or cheese. They can be added to soups, or served as a side dish with meat
in gravy. Spinach and speck are often added to the dough before cooking.
Crauti
Cabbage sliced into thin strips and cooked
in water with vinegar or wine, bay leaves, juniper berries and flour.
Spätzle
Thick finger-rolled noodles made of white
or whole wheat flour and egg. Spinach is sometimes added to the dough.
The noodles are cooked in boiling water, drained and served with butter
and Parmesan cheese.
Strudel
A dessert treat made thin layers of pastry
filled with fruit (apple) and poppy seeds. It is best eaten warm, accompanied
by custard or cream.
PIEMONTE
Grissini
It is said that these small and savory breadsticks
were developed in 17th century Piemonte, for the royal but delicate stomach
of Vittorio Amedeo II, Duke of Savoy.
Bagna Cauda
Garlic and anchovies sautèed in oil
and butter provide the base for this sauce, which is often enhanced by
a drop of cream and slices of truffle. Similar to fondue, the sauce is
kept warm in a terracotta bowl over a flame. Tender bits of celery, artichoke
or turnip are dipped into it.
Vermouth
Belonging to a long tradition of aromatic
wines, vermouth was already known to the Romans who called it absinthium.
The modern name of this wine derives from the German vermuth, referring
to the absinthe, or wormwood, used to flavor it. Other bitter ingredients
such as anise, cinnamon, coriander, bitter orange peel, cloves, quinine,
etc. are commonly used in vermouth production.
This drink was created in 1786 by A.B. Carpano.
It has become famous throughout the world under the brand name Martini,
with the sweet white, bitter, red and dry varieties.
Tomini
Spiced with herbs and pepper, these flavorful
cheeses are kept soft and preserved in olive oil.
Bonet
A delightful dessert composed of custard,
amaretti cookie crumbs, cocoa and rum which is often served veiled in a
thin layer of caramel.
Porcini
A large, extremely flavorful mushrooms found
in forest undergrowth. Although unique to, there are exported and can be
found dried in specialty shops throughout the world.
White Truffles
A form of subterranean fungus of which a
number of varieties exist. The most highly esteemed white truffle is found
in Langhe or on the hillsides of Umbria (central Italy). The white truffles
of Alba are the most prized of all and are, therefore, the most expensive.
They are most often eaten raw, cut in paper-thin slices to garnish and
enhance various dishes. Fresh truffles grated over your pasta or omelette
in a restaurant will cost between Lit.10-20,000. (other truffles are in
Umbria region)
A brief history
of truffles:
In 1564, Dr. Alfonso Ciccarelli of Bevagna
wrote a treatise entitled "De Tuberibus" dedicated to that most "scent"-ual
of tubers, the truffle. The truffle's physical character obviously fascinated
Pliny, who referred to it as a "callous under the earth". A Piemontese
chef by the name of Giacomo Morra is credited with having been first to
put truffles on the table. As truffles
grow under the earth, they are located using the sensitive noses of specially-trained
dogs, who carefully dig them up with their paws. These dogs are referred
to by the Piemontese as "tabui", which strangely enough means "bastards".
TOSCANA
Crostini di fegato
Tuscan chicken liver canapès : a toasted
slice of unsalted Tuscan bread topped by a paté of chicken liver,
anchovies and capers. The topping ingredients are cooked and then puréed
to render it smooth.
\ Tuscan Prosciutto
There's a difference between the Prosciutto
of Parma and the Tuscan variety. Tuscan ham is tougher, denser and tastier.
It is carved by hand using a long, razor-sharp knife while anchored on
a wooden cutting board made solely for this purpose.
Ribollita
A rustic "poor-man's" stew made with dry
bread, cabbage, tomatoes and lots of garlic.
Panforte di Siena
A most ancient cake recipe, rich in spices.
Essential ingredients are dried figs, almonds, hazelnuts and cocoa. The
tasty cake is fairly dense and dry, therefore not recommended for those
with fragile or false teeth.
Cantucci toscani
Typical of Prato, near Florence, these crunchy
cookies must be kept in an air-tight container, away from damp and humidity.
They are ideal dipped in a glass of vin santo: a sweet dessert wine similar
to a Muscatel or French Sauterne.
Biscotti allo champagne
You can sample these cookies made with champagne
and raisins, covered with coconut flakes at an old confectionary in Montecatini
(near Florence).
LAZIO
Fiori di Zucca Farcita
A fried vegetable treat typical of spring
and early summer found in everywhere in Rome. The zucchini flowers are
stuffed with bread crumbs, minced anchovies and parsely, dipped in egg,
rolled in flour, then fried in olive oil.
Spaghetti Cacio
e Pepe
A very simple traditional recipe where boiled
spaghetti is dressed with abundant sharp pecorino and plenty of pepper.
Spaghetti alla Carbonara
Spaghetti dressed with beaten egg yolk and
parmigiano, added to a mixture of onion fried with bacon.
Spaghetti alla Matriciana
This pasta dish using spaghetti of bucatini
takes its name from its unique sauce, composed of hog jowls or bacon, white
wine, tomatoes and spicy peppers. It is traditionally served topped with
aged pecorino.
Abbacchio
This is this the dish which most characterizes
Roman cuisine. Abbacchio is milk-fed lamb prepared in several different
ways: oven-roasted, or hunters' style with rosemary, white wine, anchovies
and peppers.
Carciofi alla Romana
Roman artichokes are a special variety called
"mammola". The stems are severed and minced fine with mint, garlic, salt
and pepper, then used to fill the artichokes, which are then cooked atop
the stove with water and olive oil.
Puntarelle
This unique member of the chicory family
is sure to be found among the side dishes at any Roman restaurant, but
most likely nowhere else in Italy. The hollow spears of the puntarelle
are sliced VERY thinly lengthwise, and set into a large quantity of cold
water for some hours. This causes the thin strips to curl up in an extraordinary
manner. The crispy curls are served raw, dressed with olive oil, vinegar,
garlic and minced anchovies.
CAMPANIA
Capperi
Capers: they are the obligatory garnish on
pizza or on a dish of spaghetti "alla puttanesca". Capers are the buds
of a beautiful plant that grows on rocky cliffsides and walls, and seem
to contain the sharp tang of the sea . They are tiny, green beads of flavor
preserved in salt. Before using, rinse them well in tepid water to remove
excess salt.
Pizza
True Neapolitan pizza is baked in a wood-burning
oven. It is very thin and covered with tomatoes, mozzarella, oregano and
anchovies. If you are having trouble cutting your pizza, don't be surprised
if a real Neapolitan comes to your rescue, saying "Strappala!" (Tear it!)
It works.
Polpo
A tiny octopus whose tentacles are covered
with suction cups. The Neapolitans say that a "real" octopus has three
rows of them!
Polpo is best cooked in a terra cotta pot
and -another tip- if you put a wine cork in the pot while the polpo cooks,
the enzymes in the cork will tenderize the octopus. Another way of obtaining
the same result, is to leave the polpo in the water it's been boiled in,
until cold.
Pastiera napolitana
A sweet cake rich in ingredients and difficult
to make. The secret ingredient is orange blossom water. The "real thing"
is available only in Campania. Anything else is a pale imitation.
Babà
These light and spongy "turbans" soaked in
rum are typical of Napoli.
Limoncello
A strong, dense lemon liqueur, to be served
chilled. Limoncello is best home-made, so they say.
Ingredients:
16 oz. alcohol (ethanol)
The peel of 1 lemon
16 oz. of water
10-12 oz. sugar
Instructions:
Steep lemon peel in alcohol (ethanol) for
10 - 15 days.
Remove lemon peel
Melt sugar in water and add the solution
to the alcohol/lemon base
Bottle and serve very cold
Zeppole
These-fritters made according to the various
recipes, are the delightful tidbits which go to make thc Feast of St.Joseph-such
a gay affair. To eat "zeppole" on the 19th March is one of the numerous
deeply-rooted traditions of Neapolitan cooking. Place on the heat half
a litre of water and a pinch of salt. As soon as it comes to the boil,
pour in, all a once 500 grams. of flour, and mix continuous a nice smooth thick batter. Now pour this
batter on to a greased slab of marble and continue to knead it with your
hands, for a few minutes. Make ring shapes with this batter and fry them
In a pan full of hot oil. When they are fried golden, drain on some kitchen
paper towels, sprinkle over lots of sugar, and eat the zeppole while they
are still warm.
Minestra maritata
With a lot of time and patience you can make
this old soup recipe, the pride of Neapolitan cooking, where meat and vegetables
are "married"together. Today, this soup is not very widely used on account
of the vast number and choice of the necessary ingredients, which do not
play a part anymore in our daily cooking. For those who are able to procure
all the ingredients; here is the recipe boil in lots of water, the bone
of a leg of ham, a salami sausage, of about 200., grams., 300 grams. of pork
chops, 3 sausages, some pork rind and 500 grams. of pork or beef. Also add
2 onions 1 yellow carrot, 2 sticks of celery. Leave the lot to cook for
a couple of hours, then drain the meat and cut into pieces. In the same
meat stock, boil about 2 kg. of assorted vegetables, amongst which chicory,
"cappuccina" i.e. a type of salad, broccoli and brussel sprouts. When the
vegetables are well cooked, add the meat to the stock.
Impepata di cozze
For those who appreciate the taste of mussels,
there isn't a better or tastier recipe than this one. For 6 persons, carefully
wash and scrape about 2 kg. of mussels, cook them in a large pan without
the lid and as they start opening, sprinkle over a generous amount of
pepper and some chopped parsley. Allow them to cook for another few minutes
and then serve the mussels with their own stock. Hen clams may also be
prepared in the same manner.
ABRUZZO
Maccheroni
In Abruzzo, the word "pasta" maccherone (sounds
like macaroni, but it's more of a band noodle) to be precise, is the maccheroni
alla chitarra. This unique method of preparing pasta has become a gastronomic
symbol of the region. The procedure consists of laying a rolled out sheet
of fresh pasta on the box with its metal strings (the "guitar") which cut
the pasta into the desired form. The dressing of choice is lamb ragù
or the standard classic tomato with basil.
Minestrone della
virtù (Soup of the Virtues)
This regional favorite merits a mention.
The Abruzzese soup takes its name from the fact that its ingredients number
seven -- the total number of the cardinal virtues. To prepare the soup
in the traditional fashion, you'll need seven types of vegetable, seven
types of meat and seven sorts of both dried and fresh legumes and aromatic
herbs. Even the condiments used number seven!
Pecorino di Farindola
Among the products typical of this region,
the Pecorino cheese made in and around Abbruzzi is without comparison in
all Italy. Particularly famous is the Farindola Pecorino, which uses a
very unusual sort of rennet: pork stomach, to be specific, which is cut
into strips and set in wine, salt and pepper for three months.
VAL
D'AOSTA
Fontina
This cheese which, depending on its age,
can have either a delicate or more piquant taste, has become the symbol
of an entire region! The process involved in its production dates back
hundreds and hundreds of years, and it was first officially documented
in 1480, when its characteristic form was recorded in a fresco in the castle
at Isogne along with other typical products of the valley. Fontina appears
in all the valley's typical dishes: fonduta (fondue), soups, gnocchi and
costolette alla valdostana (cutlet). The recipe for fonduta is really quite
simple, but at the same time very appetizing! Cut the cheese into cubes
and put the into a rectangular baking dish. Pour milk over the top to cover
the cubes and leave in the fridge overnight. The next day, add butter and
heat in the top half of a double boiler, stirring until the fontina is
completely melted. Remove from the head and stir in 4 egg yolks. one and
a time; salt and pepper to taste. Return to the double-boiler and heat
through. Do not boil. When creamy and well-blended, serve with chunks or
bits of toasted bread.
Polenta Valdostana
(Cornmeal)
Polenta, similar to hominy grits or slowcoach,
remains an indispensable part of the Valdostan diet! Curious to think that
it was only in the second half of the 16th century that corn was grown
in the area. As the years passed, polenta di granturco, with butter, fontina,
meat and gravy came to be the most important source of nutriment, often
the only source, for shepherds who remained in their mountain huts for
nearly the entire winter. In Gressoney, "polenta grassa", polenta enriched
with butter and cheese, still remains a well-entrenched favorite. (another
polenta is in Veneto region)
LOMBARDIA
Risotto
alla milanese
Milano is famous in al the world for two
dishes: its risotto alla milanese and its specially prepared cutlets. The
story goes that near the end of the 1500's, a young glaziers' apprentice
was called to the capital to work on the restoration of the cathedral's
stained glass. The young man had a mania for putting a pinch of saffron
in all the dyes used to color the glass. "He'll be putting it in his food,
next thing you know," his colleagues joked. When the works on the cathedral
were finished, the young apprentice married his master's daughter and the
joyous event was celebrated just behind the cathedral. Most likely at this
point a bit drink on the steady stream of wine flowing through the festivities,
the young groom decided to further the joke, adding saffron to the risotto
before it was brought to the table. According to popular belief, this is
how risotto alla milanese, which soon became a standard local favorite,
was born.
Gorgonzola
Uncontested Big Cheese of Lombardy, gorgonzola
takes its name from the city of the same name not far from Milano. This
Italian blue cheese has a unique, characteristic taste, delicious on its
own or ideal as a seasoning for pasta dishes or polenta. Its inception
was the result of the herds of cattle that were moved through the village
on their way down from the northern Alps. By the time the poor beasts reached
the town, they needed badly to be milked. Much of this of milk was then
given or traded to local inhabitants. Quite often, curdled milk from the
morning milking was mixed with the then cooled milk from the evening. A
chunky, uneven paste formed, and a greenish type of mold began to grow
in the cracks. Some farmers, either quite thrifty or very hungry, decided
to try and eat this smelly, veined cheese -- and found it marvelous!
CALABRIA
Caviale dei Poveri
(Poor folks' caviar)
'Caviale dei poveri' is a dish which more
than any other represents the true essence of Calabrian cooking. Consisting
of anchovy eggs in oil spiced with peppers, it has all the characteristics
of the cuisine of the poor: the ingredients are simple and immediately
available, the taste and smell are strong, almost violent. It's appearance
is less refined than its celebrated Mediterranean compatriots, but no less
delicious!
One of the principal stars of the Calabrian
cuisine, as elsewhere in Italy; is without doubt homemade la pasta! Perhaps,
however, in no other region is the preparation of this cultural staple
so linked to daily life. For example, it is said in the region that a girl
is not ready for marriage until she has learned at least fifteen different
ways to work flour and water... One of these methods would be the firriettu,
a thin iron rod around which the pasta is wound to the characteristic form
of fusilli, and also serves to flatten and smooth lasagne. il ferro da
calza è invece usato per fare i cosiddetti 'ricci di donna' e i
maccheroni.
Soppressata calabra
La soppressata è un salame di puro
suino, legato a mano con spago naturale. La carne di maiale viene macinata
e impastata con l'aggiunta di alcuni ingredienti aromatici: pepe nero,
sia in grani che in polvere, peperoncino piccante calabrese e sale.
EMILIA
ROMAGNA
Tortellini
A delicious dish typical of Emiila which
has become popular all over the world. The tortellini's unmistakable form
recalls a bandana worn on the head and knotted behind, pirate-style, hence
the name. The pasta itself is made of just flour and water, but the filling
is a blend of chicken, pork, prosciutto ham, cheese, egg and mortadella.
The pasta is set to rest overnight, and then is rolled out and then cut
either by hand or by machine into squares. The filling is place in the middle
of each square and the squares are folded into triangles. Holding one corner
down with thumb and forefinger, the other two meet in the middle and "kiss".
Tortellini is generally served either in broth or with a cream sauce.
Mortadella e ciccioli
Mortadella is a lunch meat available almost
anywhere in the States, though perhaps it's often sold as "baloney" (also
referred to as Bologna in Italy), and may not always have the characteristic
mosaic chunks of other ingredients. In the distant past, it was often paired
with ciccioli, or those bits of the hog which couldn't be used for anything
else. In principal, they closely resemble the cracklin's popular in the
American south, and the ciccarones enjoyed by Mexicans and Mexican-Americans.
They consist primarily of first layer of fat and rind which is pressed
and seasoned to form delicious savory tiles (very crunchy!) which can be
eaten as an antipasto accompanied by a good wine. Mortadella is also made
from the less importatn pork bits, which are cooked, blended and seasoned
with herbs and a dash of sugar, then made into large sausage rolls.
Salsa Bolognese
(Ragù)
For citizens of Bologna traveling abroad,
it's always excited and surprised to see "spaghetti Bolognese" written
on the menu. Wondering what this could be, some are prompted by curiosity
to order the dish and chuckle when they recognize their native ragù
(as Bolognese sauce is known in Emilia, indeed in most of Italy as well.)
Less amusing is the spaghetti, however, as this is the type of pasta least
adapted to a meat sauce, which traditionally calls for a egg pasta (spaghetti
is semolina-based and much too thin and slick). Ragù is prepared
a bit differently from one part of Emilia Romagna to another, but the basic
ingredients are: minced onion, carrot and celery sautèed inn olive
oil, to which are added peeled and seeded red tomatoes. The mixture is
then cooked down for about 15 minutes after which equal parts of choice
ground pork and beef are added to simmer over a low heat for at least one
hour. Salt, pepper, basil and sage are added to taste.
FRIULI
VENEZIA GIULIA
Iota
Beans are among the most prominent celebrities
of Friuli's cuisine, starring in many of the region's most typical dishes,
such as iota. In addition to beans and sauerkraut, this minestrone calls
for cornmeal flour and a generous helping of pestat, a local condiment
which consists of minced onion, lard, sage, garlic and parsley. The variations
of the classic theme are nearly unlimited, adding vegetables, barley, beef
or pork.
Gulash friulano (Stew)
The cuisine of Trieste is a marvelously
successful blend, combining the traditions of Veneto, Autria, Hungary,
the Balkans, Greece and the Jewish culture. The recipes are often transformed
as the various traditions meet and local ingredients such as cumin marjoram
and garlic replace those time-honored, but often the dish appears at the
table in Friuli completely unaltered! It is therefore not surprising to
find a wide variety of specialties offered in Trieste's osterie as diverse
as riso alla greca, sanguinaccio alla boem, the recipes that has been especially well-received
is the local reinterpretation of gulash. Indeed the Trieste version has
proved so popular for so long, it is now listed as an official specialty
of the Friuli region. The recipe has been improved upon and enriched over
the years to result in the recipe as it stands today. It calls for ham
fat, beef. onion, tomato, peppers, paprika and a selection of typical Italian
spices such as rosemary, sage, bay leaves.
BASILICATA
Peperoncino (Little hot peppers)
In the town of Basilicata, the little red
pepper plays a fairly large role in popular cuisine. Indeed, in local dialect
there not one, but four different names for them! Once, they were known
as the 'il pranzo del contadino o pastore ', or "farmer's or shepherd's
lunch" because they did represent a main staple of their rudimentary diet.
Characteristic of this might be the sugna piccante, a condiment made of
pork fat, fennel, salt and hot peppers, accompanied by thick slices of
homemade bread.
Salumi (Sliced meats)
A basic element of the local specialties
is pork. The salamis and sliced meats produced in this area have been famous
and highly appreciated since these days of antiquity. Particularly fond
of the product appear to have been the Romans who picked up the art form
the Lucanians. The Lucani are naturally therefore quite proud of their
centuries of experience and the quality reflected in their hams, sausages
and pancetta. It is thought that the name of the famous north-eastern sausage,
the luganega, is derived from Lucania, in honor of the indescribably yummy
sausage produced there. Original and interesting here is also the method
of production, where the sausage is kept under ashes and conserved in terracotta
crocks.
LIGURIA
Pesto alla genovese
The Genoese cuisine is known throughout the
world by its most familiar regional delight: pesto! In Liguria, pesto can
be found in every house, the most elegant restaurant and simplest osteria.
The condiment is based primarily on basil, with garlic, and oil...but the
real secret is the proportions. For truly authentic pesto, a marble mortar
and pestle are absolutely essential. Each city in Liguria have its own
variations, as well, the most interesting of which is from Savona, whereby
the taste is rounded out with the nutty flavor of pinoli (pine nuts). Pesto
accompanies any manner of pasta and main dishes, but is usually seen in
the company of lasagne (with pesto poured on top!), gnocchi, trofie, minestrone
and most especially trenette, the traditional spaghetti of Liguria.
Ingredients:
About 30 leaves of basil, 1 large clove garlic,
1 tablespoon grated Pecorino, 1 tablespoon grated Parmigiano, 2 tablespoons
pine nuts, olive oil and course salt.
Preparation:
Place the basil in the mortar, with the pine
nuts, garlic and a pinch of course salt. Grind up the ingredients, then
add the grated cheese. Grind again until all ingredients have been blended
into a green paste. Turn the paste into a bowl and add 1/2 - 1C. olive
oil. Stir gently until mixture is creamy.
Cappon magro (Grunt, whiting or umbrina)
The Genoese cuisine has been referred to
as the "homecoming cuisine", the reason for this being that most of these
dishes were born of the imagination of long-suffering fisherman's wives
who had plenty of time to plan and prepare hearty dishes of welcome for
their husbands. Indeed many of the most characteristic are complex and
time-consuming in the preparation. One of these is cappon magro, an impressive
fish dish. The appearance is that of a pyramid: the base is a bed of bread
soaked in water and vinegar. On top of this come seasoned vegetables sliced
into strips, crowned by the fish. The entire dish is then covered with
salsa verde (a parsely-based sauce with garlic, olive oil, vinegar, pine
nuts, bread crumbs and anchovies), then garnished with lobster.
Extra-virgin olive oil
Another product of which Liguria can be proud
is the olive oil pressed with love and skill from local fruit. It is among
the best in the entire peninsula! Particularly prized are the olives cultivated
in the narrow valleys backing the town of Oneglia, on the east coast. The
quality of the product is so elevated that often pasta with olive oil alone
is enough to satisfying even the most discerning palate. (another olive
oil is in Umbria region)
MARCHE
Olive ascolane (Stuffed and breaded fried
olives)
Olives all'ascolana are probably the dish
most representative of typical Marches cuisine; a cuisine characterized
by a tradition of delicious stuffed foods. The giant olives of this zone
enjoy the renown of centuries. The ancient Romans enjoyed them, and they
delighted the hungry Carthaginians when they had struggled over the Alps.
The ascolana olives get their unmistakable flavor from the stuffing which
fills the center of each pitted olive, made of ground beef, ground prosciutto,
egg, Pecorino, Parmigiano and spices. After they're filled, the olives
are dipped in beaten egg and dredged through bread crumbs and then fried
in oil. Optimal eaten piping hot!
Le zuppe di pesce (Fish soups)
A seafood lunch on the coast of the Marches
just has to start off with a 'brodetto', or fish soup. There are two main
versions, and the one preferred in Ancona calls for thirteen types of fish,
including scorpion fish, eel and red mullet. The fish is cooked with onion,
tomato, parsley, pepper, oil and vinegar. The other alternative, in vogue
around Porto Recanati, calls for the fish to be browned and then cooked
in a sauce enhanced by saffron.
UMBRIA
Pesce d'acqua dolce (Fresh water fish)
Speaking of fish, Umbria's first-class regional
specialty is provided by Lake Trasimeno, where they catch carp of up to
30 lbs.! The most famous dish prepared with this magnificent bounty is
known by the interesting name of The Queen as Suckling Pig (la regina in
porchetta). The dish consists of carp cooked in a wood oven in the same
way as porchetta is baked. The roasting pan yields something quite special,
the juices being somewhere between a fish soup and a rich stew comprising
all the fish in the lake, plus fine olive oil, white wine and herbs.
L'olio d'oliva (Olive oil)
The olive of Umbria goes back a long way,
indeed all the way back to the Etruscans! Its quality is determined by
the climate, which allows for a slow ripening period. This in turn permits
making the most of the harvest: 80 percent of the olive oil produced results
from the first cold pressing.
La selvaggina (Game and fowl)
Pheasants, thrushes and hares (great when
prepared alla cacciatora, seasoned with prosciutto and herbs), partridges
and quail. There are of course many diverse ways the Umbrians prepare the
various meats. In Terni, cooks are fond of baking game inside a bread dough
crust, a bit along the lines of Beef Wellington. The technique del pillotto,
on the other hand uses twin spits, turning one above the other. The upper
spit slowing drips lard onto the beef or lamb turning below.
Il tartufo (Truffles)
This is the pride and joy of the Umbrian
cuisine: the black truffle gathered here from March to November in Val
Nerina and in Spoleto. This is a truffle of superior quality which has
been threatened in the past few years with extinction due to the volume
of demand. To ensure the viability of the species, and the satisfaction
of gourmets around the world, numerous oak trees have been artificially
inseminated with truffle spores. The black truffle is an essential ingredient
used in many meat and fish dishes as a base, and to enrich spaghetti and
egg creations. One of the more important of the traditional dishes is wild
boar with truffles (cinghiale al tartufo) and it is often used in salads.
For use as a condiment it is often cubed and browned in butter.
MOLISE
Zuppa di ortiche (Nettle soup)
This recipe dates back to the 1500's, and
is one of the oldest and most widespread traditional dishes the region.
After being boiled in water, the leaves and stems of the nettles are chopped
and sautéed with tomato, onion, lard, olive oil and diced celery.
Its very unique taste is delicate and really cannot be compared with other
dishes of this kind.
Ventricina (Sausage)
Among all the sausages typical of the Molisano
tradition, the ventricina, (a reinterpretation of an Albanian favorite)
is one of the most flavorful. It comprises specially selected cuts of meat,
particularly prosciutto, and hard fat. It is seasoned with paprika, fennel
and red peppers and then stuffed into casings and vacuum packed. A covering
of lard preserves the sausage.
PUGLIA
Il pesce crudo (Raw fish)
On an Italian menu, the second course is
very often fish. The recipes are quite easy -- it's no good diminishing
or worse yet, altering, the delicate taste of the fish itself with complicated
procedures and ingredients. In Bari, for example, they eat polyps and tiny
fish raw; still alive actually, straight out of the water. Oysters from
the area are excellent and are also eaten fresh out of the water with a
squeeze of lemon and a dash of pepper. In Taranto, they're fond of their
delicious mussels, whose special goodness is explained by a local legend.
Deep in the Gulf of Taranto there are jets of fresh water, which is quite
appealing to the mussels. The vortex of the largest of these can be seen
from the surface and is called San Cataldo. It is said that the saint threw
his ring into the water to calm a storm. The underwater spring was born
at the very point where the jewel hit the water and this is the reason
the Tarantine mussels are so good!
Lo scapece di Gallipoli
(a regional fish dish)
Among the recipes for preparing the numerous
sorts of local fish, scapece di Gallipoli is perhaps the most typical:
it involves frying up a batch of pupiddi (tiny, tasty fish) which are then
marinated with vinegar and saffron. The word scapece come from the word
'escabeche', Spanish for the method of cooking in which fried fish or vegetables
are set in vinegar.
SARDEGNA
Aragosta con patate (Lobster with potatoes)
A dish typical of Stintino, it originated
in Asinara, where it was considered the evening meal of fisherman who hadn't
managed to sell his lobster and cooked it up with potatoes.
Ingredients:
4 medium lobsters 1 onion 4 T. tomato sauce
2 large potatoes 1 clove garlic salt and pepper, red peppers, spices
Sauté the onion, garlic and spices.
Brown the meat of claws and legs until the sauce has thickened then add
the rest of the lobster. Stir in tomato sauce, salt, red pepper and lastly
the cubed potatoes. When the potatoes are done to taste, remove the mixture
from the heat and serve.
Porcello allo spiedo (Piglet on a spit)
The preparation of meat has been strongly
influenced by the methods of shepherds. One of the most common of these
is surely the spit over an open flame. It's practical and the results are
excellent. The porceddu is a suckling pig cooked on a spit of arbutus wood
over a fire made with juniper, myrtle, laurel and olive, sprinkled from
time to time with lard. It's served hot and crunchy, but is also enjoyed
cold after having been covered a couple of days with aromatic branches
of myrtle.
Il toro del cibattino ("Shoemaker's bull",
a meaty dish)
It's more than amazing, this method of cooking
from the Nuoro province of Sardinia which resembles a set of Russian Matrijoska
dolls more than anything else! First, a calf is stuffed with a wild goat,
which is filled with a suckling pig. And that's not the end of it... inside
the piglet is a hare, which contains a grouse which contains a small bird.
Why is it called il toro del ciabattino? Because it requires the services
of a shoemaker armed with a needle and thread to sew each ingredient into
the one before.
SICILIA
Arancini (Molded rice balls)
Arancini, which means "oranges", are one
of the most famous and widespread Sicilian specialties using rice. They
can well take the place of a pasta course, as they are particularly nutritious
and their small molded forms are attractive to serve. They are actually
a specialty of Palermo, but are typically made all over the island, usually
with some alterations on the classic theme. In eastern Sicily, in Messina
and above all, Catania, they more egg-shaped than rounded. The rest of
the island however likes them round as an orange -- hence the name. The
balls are filled and the fillings vary as well: with the addition of cheese
in Catania, with onion and white wine in Enna as well as with cacio cheese;
in Ragusa, no saffron is added.
Sarde a beccafico (Stuffed sardines)
This is very traditional Sicilian dish, where
the cleaned sardines are served "open-face" filled with bread crumbs, pinoli
(pine nuts), passolina, sugar and lemon juice. Many people add egg to the
other ingredients to hold the filling together. The characteristic sour-sweet
taste comes marinating the fish in lemon juice.
Frittella
This is another specialty typical of Palermo
that is used in a number of ways. It's great as an antipasto, a little
in-between course, a main course or a one-course meal. Contrary to what
its name may imply, the frittella (pancake) is not a dessert or an egg
dish. It is, you'll be surprised to know, a dish made of fresh fava beans
fried in oil or lard, sometimes combined with peas, artichokes or other
vegetables.
VENETO
Il riso (Rice)
In Veneto, the first course, or primo piatto,
consists primarily of rice. Cultivated in the province of Verona, it is
prepared in dozens of ways, with each area adding its own local flavor
to the recipe. Perhaps the most common example of this is Risi e Bisi (rice
with peas) of which there are at least ten different versions to choose
from. Besides this famous dish which opened the Doge's lunch menu during
the fest of San Marco, Veneto claims up to 40 recipes, all combining rice
with all manner of other ingredients: meat, fish and, above all, vegetables.
Sarde in saor (Sardines
in sweetened vinegar)
This dish best reflects the Asian influence
of the local cuisine. It consists of braised plump sardines, accompanied
by onions, sultanas, pine nuts and vinegar seasoned with diverse undertones
of sweet and savory. The key to success with this dish is marination: the
sardines are left to marinate for at least ten hours before serving, cementing
the happy union of all the ingredients.
Baccalà mantecato
(Stockfish mousse)
A fish dish representative of Venice's cuisine
is the baccalà mantecato, where the stockfish is dipped in boiling
water, skinned, boned and minced, then dressed with olive oil. It is then
beaten with a wooden kitchen mallet. The resulting paste is whipped into
a kind of mousse which can be served on top of toasted polenta or canapés.
This treat can be found in the Venice's typical osterias, known as "bacari",
and in its most exclusive restaurants.
Fegato alla veneziana
(Venitian Liver and onions)
Among the dishes that make up Venice's gastronomic
history, probably the most famous is fegato alla veneziana, which has spread
to many cities throughout the world. It is a liver dish which appeals even
to those who have refused liver since childhood. The calves' liver is sliced
into very thin strips and sautéed in olive oil with a lot of onion,
butter and parsley. Note: This dish is a must in you go to Venice...Trust
us!
La polenta (Cornmeal
mush)
Polenta is considered by the inhabitants
of Veneto to be a proper bread. Before the arrival of corn, buckwheat was
used instead, in combination with millet and fava beans. Around the middle
of the 16th century, the Venetians began to import and employ corn. A very,
very famous dish which unites the Venetians' love of polenta with their
love of meat is polenta ed osei, polenta accompanied by small birds roasted
over a low flame and flavored with lard, sage and olive oil.
Soppressa (Sausage)
Sopressa is a finely ground pure pork sausage
with a finer spray of speckling than in salami. In is at home anywhere
in Veneto and is the ideal companion for a glass of wine. It's best when
freshly cut slices are grilled and served atop toasted slices of polenta.
In Vicentino, every valley proudly boasts its own production of the sausage,
but the origin of choice for this sausage is Valli del Pasubio, high in
the Leogra basin a few kilometers from the Alpine splendour of the Pian
delle Fugazze. Tradition calls for the pigs used to make Soppressa to be
fed on chestnuts and potatoes, not neglecting the local water so rich in
minerals.

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