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WINE AND
GASTRONOMY
Long
ignored by food experts, the cuisine of Abruzzo
has been rightfully reevaluated with the
rediscovery of local flavors and Mediterranean
products.The typical dishes
of Abruzzo are characterized by simple recipes
which focus on the freshness of its products:
fruits of the earth and sea, accompanied by
refined preparation of ancient origins.
FIRST
COURSES
As
regards to the first courses, other than the
famous maccheroni alla chitarra, worthy of
mention are the scrippelle 'mbusse - thin
pancakes sprinkled with sheep's cheese and
cinnamon and covered with broth - and the
renowned timballo. This is based on pancakes,
too, which are said to have been brought to
Teramo by a Breton sailor, a deserter from
Napoleon's army, who settled down, happily
married in the town. The Primo Maggio (May Day),
is a fateful date for the women of Teramo who
are busy in the long preparation of the virtu',
the origins of which have been lost in time. The
"virtù" is an auspicious dish which includes
seven types of dry pulses (the remains of the
winter supplies), seven types of fresh pulses
and seven types of vegetables (fresh produce),
seven qualities of meat, seven shapes of pasta,
seven seasonings, and seven hours cooking time.
On May Day in Teramo, apart from in the
restaurants, it is possible to eat the "virtù"
in the street, offered by numerous street
sellers.
The number seven
turns up in the traditional panarda of L'Aquila,
a sumptuous banquet at which the participants
are not allowed to say "no" to the seven types
of dishes.
Sagne:
The "poor" pasta is the emblem of the
regional culinary tradition together with "alla
chitarra", flavoured with thousands of sauces,
the "sagne e fagioli" (widespread in all the
region).
Tacconi o
tacconelli: A variety of the "sagne"
but cut in a quadrangular shape (widespread
mainly in the mountain area of upper Vasto and
Lanciano).
Maccheroni
alla chitarra: Also called "caratelle"
because they are traditionally created using a
frame with very fine copper wires called "carrature"
or "chitarra" (regionally widespread. Festivity
treat).
Timballo:
An egg lasagna worked into overlying
layers of pasta filled with a meaty tomato sauce
or a plain one with mozzarella and cheese
(widespread mainly in the Chieti and Pescara
rovinces. Festivity treat).
Scrippelle:
A sort of pancake served rolled in
broth, and so they are called 'mbusse (soaked)
or they are used to make "timballo" instead of
the usual layers of pasta. They are flavoured
with cinnamon and nutmeg for those who enjoy a
bittersweet taste (a Teramo speciality.
Festivity treat).
Cavatille
or Cazzarille: Small, wide rings of
hard wheat pasta eaten with broccoli or plain,
with white wine or with a meat or fish sauce (a
speciality of Vasto and surroundings).
Potato
gnocchi: (Regionally widespread.
Festivity treat).
Ravioli
with cottage cheese and/or meat:
(Regional widespread. Festivity treat).
"Taijarille"
in broth: Thin strips of egg pasta
served with chicken or pigeon broth given mainly
to mothers after childbirth (Regionally
widespread).
Maccheroni
alla mugnaia: "La mulenàre" consists
in a single, ver" long strip of hard wheat pasta
worked and lengthened by hand (a typical
speciality of the Vestina area).
Le
Fregnacce: A hard wheat pasta cut into
large sheets used also for a type of timballo.
La
Fracchiata: A sort of soft "polenta"
(thick maize porridge) served fried with garlic,
chilli (lazzarette), peppers and sardines.
Li Papicci:
A sort of "fettuccine" (ribbon-shaped
pasta) of only hard wheat cut by hand and served
with a broth-like sauce (a Teramo speciality).
Le Virtù:
A soup made with different kinds of
vegetables and pulses, linked to a mainly Teramo
peasant tradition. In spring the remains of the
winter supplies are joined with the first of the
new crop.
Strangolapreti: A typical hard wheat
pasta of L'Aquila in a cord-shape.
Li
Piringhilli: Cord-shape lengths of
hard wheat pasta and spinach (Campo
Felice-L'Aquila).
Polenta
with sausage or "rognosa": Made with
maize flour and flavoured with fried bacon,
sausages and sheep's cheese.Numerous variations
(with mushrooms, wild boar, vegetables, etc),
(widespread mainly in the L'Aquila province).
Soups with
chichpeas, lentils, chicklings or beans:
Regionally widespread with a preference
towards the Gran Sasso plateau. It is possible
to find in all the region the famous beans with
pieces of pig skin.
Spelt
soup: The Sfarrata is an ancient
Italic and Roman food (found on the plateaus of
the Gran Sasso, L'Aquila and province).
Pizza
sotto il coppo (under the lid) ("A lu coppe"):
A traditional "poor" food of the
peasant families, a mixture of maize flour,
water, and salt cooked under the "coppo" (a high
lid) in the fireplace. The "pizz'e ffojje" is
famous (with broccoli).
Turkey or
chicken broth with "cardone": (leaves
from the artichoke plant suitably prepared).
Sagne alla
cuttòra: A sort of badly cut hard
wheat pasta served boiling hot in the copper, "cuttòra",
flavoured with powdered pepper or chilli and
fried sausages and pork. This ritual main course
is eaten exclusively during carnival time in
Castiglione Messer Marino village (Ch).
THE MEAT
The
Abruzzo cooking is simple, and has, as a common
factor, the natural products of the various
areas. Inland, kids, lambs and sheep reared on
the pastures in the high mountains, take first
place. Lamb holds the leading role as "the main
course" thanks to its particularly tasty, tender
meat; it is cooked in different ways according
to the traditions of the different localities.
We can move from
the famous "cacio e ova" (cheese and egg) with
roast lamb and its kebabs; from the lamb's head
stuffed with plain stew; the "mazzarelle",
morsels of the iamb's offal wrapped in fresh
green leaves and tied with gut, then getting to
other preparations of an older kind, such as "l'agnello
incaporchiato" with roast potatoes and "la
pecora al cotturo".
For years pork has
represented the primary source of sustenance for
the Abruzzo peasant families that used every
single part of the animal, even the inedible
parts (from the nails to the bones, for example,
boiled with the fat to make soap). The meat is
eaten fresh but, above all, salted and packed in
sacks through the year; and finally the blood is
sweetened with cocoa and is turned into "sanguinaccio"
which, spread on bread, substitutes superbly
chocolate. Pork is used to prepare "cif e ciaf',
an exquisite dish based on ribs, sirloin, and
bacon fried with spicy peppers. The origins of
the following recipe go back far in time: pork
taken from a piglet which is boned, rolled and
stuffed with various spices and aromas and
cooked in a wood-burning oven.
Turkey is another
protagonist in the Abruzzo kitchen, especially a
Teramo kitchen, where it is prepared "alla
canzanese".
Second
courses: the meat
LAMB
Cace e
ova: with egg and cheese (widespread
mainly along the coastline and in the hilly
area). Roast (everywhere). Golden fried ribs
(everywhere). Barbecued (mainly in the mountain
area).
Arrosticini: "spitucce" (Pescara), "rustille",
"cippitille" (Chieti), dialectal varieties for
the kebabs widespread mainly in Pescara, the
Vestina area, on the Majella and on the stretch
of hills in the Chieti area.
Mazzarelle
(Teramo): "'narri" (L'Aquila-Marsica),
"majatille" (Chieti), "turcinille" (Pescara-Chieti),
roulades of a suckling lamb's offal. "Paliate",
a stew of a suckling lamb's intestines with
chilli and various herbs.
Coratella:
offal stew.
Alla
callara: lamb and mutton cooked in the
copper with various herbs (Pescara-Chieti).
Cuvatte:
"coatto" (forced), stewed mutton or
lamb (Teramo province).
Porchettato: cooked in a wood-burning
oven (Teramo-Chieti).
Cuccette:
arrosto, a roasted lamb's head, halved
and flavoured with herbs (regionally
widespread).
Miscica:
strips of lamb or mutton salted and
dried in the sun; this is the winter supply of
the shepherd (Castel del Monte-L'Aquila).
PORK
Cif e ciaf:
pieces of rib, sirloin and bacon fried
with chilli and peppers; it is usually eaten at
the evening meal after the slaughter of the
animal (regionally widespread).
Porchetta:
a pig of a maximum of 80 kgs, boned,
rolled and stuffed with spices, various herbs
and cooked in a wood-burning oven. Old, ritual
food since the days of the Italics and the
Romans. The whole roasted pig is famous, as are
the "porchettari" from Campli (Te), Ripa Teatina
(Ch), Villa S. Maria (Ch), who go round almost
all the region taking advantage of the markets,
fairs, and folklore celebrations to sell their
"delicacy" (expansive diffusion from the
coastline to the inland hills and piedmonts,
apart from the mountainous area where the
pastoral culture resists and therefore also lamb
and mutton).
Cotiche e
fagioli: The skin (trotters and ears
included) and beans, stewed pigs skin with beans
around the hearth in a e earthenware pot
(regionally widespread, a speciality of the
Lanciano countryside).
Second
courses: salami and sausages
The pork-butchers
of L'Aquila are excellent.
Meat
sausages: regionally widespread. Spicy
liver sausages (regionally widespread). Spicy
tripe sausages, "annoje" (Chieti-Pescara). Blood
sausages (L'Aquila).
"Mad"
sausages: with skin and left oyers
(regionally widespread).
Local
ham: L'Aquila, mountainous and
piedmont area in all the provinces.
Loin of
pork, Capelomme, Capecolle: all the
provinces.
Salami:
L'Aquila, Teramo, Upper Vasto, the
Vestina area.
Ventricina:
a speciality of Lanciano and all the
upper Vasto; that of Roccaspinalveti (Ch) is
famous.
Cujune de
mule: a sort of mortadella (Bologna
sausage). A Campotosto-L'Aquila speciality, so
called for their particular shape.
Coppa:
a sausage made with "cotiche" (skin),
the cartilage and other second rate parts,
boiled and flavoured.
THE SECOND
COURSES: CHEESES
Cheeses
and products from sheep and goat's milk
Local
sheep's cheese: mature or fresh
(mountainous area).
Roman
sheep's cheese: lengthy maturing,
strong taste (L'Aquila mountain area).
Ricotta
and Cacio marcetto: "Ricotta" (cottage
cheese) and "cacio marcetto" (rotten),
(mountainous area). Goat's cheeses of a shorter
maturing, are usually eaten fresh and can be
found where there are the goat breeding farms on
the east side of the Majella (Fara S. Martino,
Pennapiedimonte) and in the upper Vasto.
Cow's cheese
Caciecavalle: caciocavallo (strong
cheese from Southern Italy) (Pescocostanzo,
National Park, Roccaraso, Rivisondoli, etc.).
Cottage
cheese and cacio: regionally
widespread
Mozzarelle:
Rivisondoli, Majella, from Teramo and
Lanciano, L'Aquila and surroundings.
Mozzarelle
weathered: Lanciano, L'Aquila and
surroundings.
Giuncatina
or "Quaijate": giuncatina (junket) or
"Quaijate", fresh cheese, hardly curdled with or
without salt.
OTHER
SECOND COURSES
Duck,
rabbit, turkey, chicken, and pigeon:
boned and stuffed (coastline and hill area,
festivity treat). Duck, rabbit: chasseur
(everywhere). Pheasant, hare, wild boar (upper
Vasto, Sangro valley, the Peligna area).
Free-range
chicken: roasted, stewed and with
peppers (regionally widespread). The pepper
version belongs to the horticultural coastal
area of: Ortona, Francavilla, Pescara and
surroundings.
Stockfish
and salted cod: stewed with potatoes
and peppers, barbecued salted cod (diffused
mainly in the hilly inland and the coast; a
Penne speciality). The Nereto turkey (Nereto-Teramo,
festivity treat). The Canzano turkey (Canzano-Teramo,
festivity treat). There are the street sellers,
as for the roast pig (porchetta).
Ciammariche: (snails) (hilly,
agricultural inland and coastline).
FISH
SPECIALITIES
The regional
maritime gastronomy is very simple and reaches
its best in the preparing of the brodetto (fish
soup), various kinds of fish cooked in an
earthenware dish, either the dish from
Giulianova, or the one from Vasto.
The Scapece is a
characteristic dish of Vasto, a fish speciality,
no bones and preserved in vinegar, wjth plenty
of saffron which gives it the yellow colour.
A
mixed fry
The Pescara soup
or broth
The Ortona soup or
broth
The Giulianova
soup or broth
The Vasto soup or
broth
Variety of
mixed fish cooked in an earthenware pot:
Differentiate in the use of herbs and
spices (such as the 4 localities of the "Marine"
premises).
Marine stew (plain
broth)
Marine mussels and
clams
Peppered mussels
Squill broth
Smothered polyps
Frog fish tail
with roast potatoes
Bass or gilthead
bream with roast potatoes
Steamed tuna with
salad
Spicy or sweet,
pickled, raw anchovies
Mackerel with
salad or marinated
Fried "papalina" (alevin,
minute fish), baked, marinated raw
Smoked sardines,
salted and marinated
Mullet broth (rusciule)
Lobster
with vinegar: cooked in water and
vinegar.
Scapece:
A Vasto speciality. Boneless fried fish
and preserved in vinegar with plenty of saffron
which gives it its yellow colour. It is sold by
street sellers at markets, fairs, village
celebrations mainly during the summer period.
For its transport and the conservation huge,
wooden bins are used, built by the last cooper
of Castiglione Messer Marino.
THE CAKES
When
talking about typical Abruzzo cakes we must
remember: the pizza di Pasqua, a kind of
leavened flat bread (focaccia), that is blessed
in church on the eve of Easter; the ferratelle (L'Aquila),
the neole (Chieti), and the pizzelle (Pescara),
sweet wafers made using a red hot, rectangular
mould; the parrozzo, a typical cake of Pescara
which owns its name to the prolific fantasy of
D'Annunzio; the confetti of Sulmona; the
calgiunitti, loaves of fried pasta filled with
marmalade, chickpeas, candied fruit,
pine-kernels, and chopped-up walnuts, made for
Christmas Eve; the cicerchiata, little balls of
fried pasta bound with candied fruit and honey,
eaten during the carnival period together with
the frappe (fried pastry cake).
These typical
dishes of Abruzzo are accompanied by the greatly
appreciated Abruzzo wine: the red Montepulciano
of Abruzzo and the white Trebbiano of Abruzzo.
Typical traditional cakes
Ferratelle
(L'Aquila), Neole (Chieti), Pizzelle (Pescara):
sweet wafers made from egg, flour,
white wine, sugar, and aniseed formed with a
rectangular or round mould made red-hot in the
fireplace.
Nevole (Ortona,
Chieti): round wafers rolled into
cones made with a round iron. There is, amongst
the mixture's ingredients, must baked according
to the old Italic and Roman tradition.
Bocconotti:
loaves of puff pastry filled with cocoa
and candied fruit (a speciality of Lanciano and
Palena-Ch).
Castagnaccio: chestnut cake (Teramo
and L'Aquila provinces).
Cellucci:
typical cakes of marmalade for the
Abbot S. Antonio's Day in the Teramo area.
Tarallucci:
typical cakes for the Abbot S.
Antonio's Day in the Pescara and Chieti area.
Crespelle,
Crispelle or Treccioline: cakes of
fried potatoes.
Frappe or
Chiacchiere: leavened, fried cakes
typical during carnival time.
Parrozzo:
typical cake of Pescara ("G. D'Amico"
firm).
Sise delle
monache or I tre monti: three small
breasts (sise = tits) filled with cream. Typical
cake of Guardiagrele (Ch).
Almond
torrone (kind of nougat): "Palmerio"
firm, a Guardiagrele (Ch) speciality.
Macaroons
and almond pastries: a Guardiagrele
(Ch) speciality.
Sweet
pizza: a normal sponge cake filled for
special occasions.
Chocolate
"torrone" (kind of nongat): a L'Aquila
speciality ("Sorelle Nurzia" firm).
Confetti
(sugar-coated almonds): typical
Sulmona sweets ("M. Pelino" firm with a museum
attached or "W. Di Carlo").
Christmas cakes
Calgiunitte: loaves of fried pastry
with marmalade, almonds, pine-seeds and chopped
up walnuts or must cooked chickpeas and candied
fruit (Pescara and surroundings, Chieti and
surroundings apart from the mountain areas).
Capitone:
almond pastry in the form of a snake or
large eel (the National Park of Abruzzo area).
Scarponi:
a kind of mostacciolo cake used in
Sulmona (L'Aquila) based on cooked must
according to an old Italic tradition.
DRINKS AND
WINES
Ratafia:
A wine from black cherries fermented in
the summer sun (L'Aquila, the National Park of
Abruzzo).
Black
cherry syrup:
Liqueurs
and distillates of herbs: "E. Toro"
firm (Torre de' Passeri-Pescara), domestic
manufacturing in all the region.
Doppio
Arancio: (Double Orange) liqueur, a
sweet taste of a homemade production of the
Erminio Orsini firm of Giulianova, in activity
since 1850's.
Vintage
wines: in the Teramo province, Peligna
valley (L'Aquila), Val Pescara, the Frentana
area of the Chieti province.

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